One exception, though, is the artful octopus-carpaccio appetizer. An artichoke salad was unmemorable and a dish insouciantly billed as “Lettuce” turned out to be a straightforward Caesar salad. But subtler flavors on the menu could sometimes be more imaginatively handled. Such rituals can often seem perfunctory and embarrassing, but here, despite the tiny space, the staff conveys real enjoyment. This is one of several dishes that are plated or prepared at one’s table. A signature dish is suckling pig, a loin with succulent, crispy skin. A rich pumpkin soup contains thick strands of sautéed onion, and the outstanding gnocchi come in a sauce of Cabrales cheese, browned on top. While the cooking here is on the ambitious side, many of the most successful dishes have a hearty simplicity.
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